The hotel we stayed at in Flagstaff, AZ was directly across from a very busy train line and therefore the thing I remember most about it was the NOISE. It was utterly utilitarian, and that is the best thing I can say. It reminded me of somewhere Llewelyn Moss might have hidden out from Anton Chigurh in No Country for Old Men.
Regardless, we slept there just fine. The 25th of May was our day of adventure in Arizona. We woke late and meandered our way south of Flagstaff to Sedona where we were meeting up with our river guide from Sedona Adventures for our two-hour long kayak trip on The Verde River. The sun was high in the cloudless sky and it felt like about 100 degrees in the sun. I maintain that the Arizona sun is hotter than the sun anywhere else. I know this cannot possibly be true, but I feel like it should be.
By some manner of chance or coincidence, the morning tour down the river had about 13 people on it, but ours was just the two of us. Our guide’s name was Geoff (he never spelled it for me, but he seemed like Geoff rather than a Jeff) and he was … surprising. He might be the cheeriest stranger we met while on holiday. He was certainly enthusiastic about his job, that is for sure. Although neither S nor I had ever kayaked in inflatable kayaks before (or any other type of kayak, to be perfectly honest), Geoff was patient with us and a very concise instructor. He even told us, very enthusiastically and in the car on the way to the launch site, to “POUND THAT WATER!” so we wouldn’t dehydrate on our journey.
What can I say about the actual kayak trip? We LOVED it. It was so quiet and peaceful and serene and…perfect. And, I didn’t fall out of the kayak even once. There was a blue heron which followed us on our path down the river, which I found very comforting. I mentioned that in some depictions of Egyptian mythology the Heron brought the first sunrise to Earth and Geoff liked that very much.
The water of the river was a chalky-green white colour (hence the name – green river). In places the water ran fast over mini-rapids and at other times it snaked out over larger expanses and slowed to a crawl.
At one section we passed by a cliff face encrusted with swallows’ nests. There weren’t many birds visible, but it was a lovely place. Because there were only the two of us and Geoff didn’t have anything else to do that day, he let us take our time and ask as many questions as we wanted. He was very knowledgeable – and not just about kayaks. We talked books, too. Not TV, though, Geoff didn’t own a TV. He’s exactly the type of person you’d expect to not own a TV.
This kayak trip down the Verde River was my favourite “thing” we did on the whole holiday. I could have spent days there just floating. It was a beautiful place and a beautiful time.
If you’re going to Arizona, and spending any time in the middle of the state, go see Sedona Adventures and look what they have to offer – if you have time then do the kayak trip – it really was incredible.
In the evening of 25th May we went to a wild west show at the Blazin M Ranch. This was tourism cheesiness at its best and brightest. The replica old west village was like something out of an amusement park – that over the top… The dinner show was predictable but enjoyable also. The dinner was fun. There were baked beans and biscuits – if you wanted a second biscuit then they’d throw it at you. Very funny!
They asked where everyone was from and, for some reason, S saying he was Scottish earned him nearly a standing ovation from the audience. Everyone wanted to talk to him or shake his hand. People from England or Ireland weren’t as well received, for some reason. S did not like this. He’s not the spotlight type. 🙂
We’d signed up for cheesy tourism and the Balzin M Ranch delivered. If that is the sort of place you’re looking for then that’s exactly the place you should go.
Afterwards we drove back to Flagstaff for our last night in Arizona. We needed our rest. the next day we were driving all the way to south-west Kansas (a LONG WAY!).
So, tomorrow – out of the Arizona desert and into the wheat fields of the midwest.
For now, sleep.